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William Finnegan: Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

  Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’smemoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.

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